To BUY or Not to BUY - by Anindita Kundu
Few days back during a family conversation over shopping during festivals, someone asked me why I buy fabrics and tailor made cloths or wait for soem specific exhibitions to check out things while there are plenty of options in trendy designs available in much lesser price in malls on online stores year round.
The allegation is true, but trust me, there are reasons ! I personally feel, when you are trying to buy anything with your money eventually you will use the item, a little effort and research won't harm the process. I normally eye an item for quite some time, have imaginary conversations with myself of getting it (or if I am missing that little too much), do I need it, will I wear it (in how many occassions, how long) - After clearing all these chemical tests (read doubts in my mind), I earn things! You can see the whole drama of heart and mind for buying one single item. Okay, there are cheat days (haters call it as 'impulsive shopping') too but happens once in a blue moon !
I really have incidents like sitting on the thought for 2 years of buying one 'must-have' piece and have seen that is 'out of stock'. I have chanted on 'agar kisi cheez ko pure dil se chaaho...etc etc' mantra, sometimes it worked, mostly it didn't. But hey, you get the idea, right? I don't rush ! Instead I can totally plan my summer/christmas trips to get any fabric from any particular city. I hope by now my family was convinced that I really don't have to fall for what is available or trendy in the nearest stores when I can chose the timeless classic pieces (or can tailor made them) from wherever I want ! Note, I don't always travel, sometimes the business travel for me too in my city (in the exhibitions) !
So the conversation continues in the family and later with my friends. What I realised that there is a sheer lack of awareness of what the indian heritage and handloom products can offer . During these years, I have heard from many people that ikkats and Patola are 'mere prints' and why the price is so high for these printed pieces. I almost fainted hearing that statement. Little did they realise what level of effort is spent on all these 'printed' looking weaves. Cannot blame them always, as most of the fast fashion brands started selling the dresses with descriptions as 'ethnic prints' or 'ikat printed' !
Now consider a piece made of jamdani, why to pay such high price as these are simply cotton made ! First of all, cotton is not as simple as we think. It does wonders! It is soft and breathable as it is coming from the natural fibers (I am skipping the other technical details here). I have seen the '100% cotton' labels on cloths made with synthetic fibers or polyesters. They look like cotton, but can never ever feel like cotton. We may not be technically that sound to identify what is real and what not, but I can guarantee the 'how it feels against your skin' is something we all easily understand. Now if I start writing on the weaving part, it will be another story !
The similar cases happened for the chikankari and kantha work, these embroideres are marketed well and people are crazy about owning atleast a piece of these, but what we don't realise the level of skill and effort getting spent to create these pieces. Now that the consumers are not realising the effort details, they are not ready to pay much which in turn forcing the artisans to lower the skill level and opting for the machine made things. And in this drama, the art is suffering. To add more horror to the story, I have seen the 'machine made' kantha sarees or chikankari suits in govt sponsored craft exhibitions as well where people buying these thinking they are handmade.
While there is no debate on the 'buying capacity' and everyone has every right to spend their money what they like, I believe we always need to know what (and why) we are paying for. One truly needs to understand what is 'machine made' and what is 'hand made'. Why handmade will be costlier than machine made. What is a 'print' and what is 'weave', also what comprises of complicated design patterns and 'woven techniques'. Most importantly, how the designers add finesse to the products for which the prices may vary.
And mind it, I haven't started the factors on environmental friendliness, discrimination of labour wages, underpaid artists !
So yes, when you are purchasing in your capacity, try to understand where is the money going, who are making your clothes and are you really proud of owning that piece.